Thursday 28 May 2015

The Fellowship of the Rhine - Part 2

Day 10 - 25 May
In a way that was eerily similar to the previous day, the 10th of May also dawned - there is an element of ground-hog day when you are cruising the Rhine.  The main difference to the previous day was that we were very excited to be cruising through the Rhine Gorge, and seeing its magnificent castles.  Awake early we saw the dawn break - but not in a bad way, as when something becomes broken and won't work.  The dawn was magnificent.
A somewhat Zen moment - the sunrise photographed in the mirror of our cabin, while lying in bed - potentially frightening any caravanners using powerful binoculars to look into our window
The dawn didn't last long, and we soon found ourselves back in the normal routine of life.
The post-dawn view out of our cabin window
Rhonda and I were devastated to hear that we had missed the first couple of castles along the Rhine. Thankfully, however, Joanne had woken Robin up at 5.15am so that he could capture the priceless image of the first castle for the day.
An impressive castle on a hill overlooking Robin
So far so good: no evidence that we had reached our hillsidecastleviewingboredomethreshold. We eagerly kept a sharp lookout for castles.  There's one!
A castle in the distance, on that hill about one third of the way in from the right hand edge of the photo
I hope we see another one soon.
Hooray!
If the light improves we'll be able to get some better photographs of castles.
What did I tell you!
Feeling a bit frustrated that it was still a little dark for optimal castle viewing, we headed down to breakfast.  Who should we bump into but Lea, who, as is quite usual on this trip, was eating.
Lea - looking effortlessly chic even while devouring breakfast (the word 'eating' somewhat understates her actions)
After breaking the fast it was time to do some serious castle viewing.
Not a bad castle
Then, almost before we could catch our breath, we spotted what looked like an even better example of castle architecture.
But no!  On closer inspection this one's in need of some serious renovation
A couple of us were starting to feel that perhaps there was a limit to the number of castles we could see before getting bored, when we chanced upon a scenic view that didn't include a castle.
A very pretty town beside the Rhine - the people who lived here might not have felt safe, because there was no obvious castle to protect them
Thankfully we soon came across another castle.
Now this is a pretty castle - I love what they've done with the pink section, just to the left of centre, it even matches the colour of the church in the right foreground
Our cruise director, Hendrik,was giving us a commentary that would have been fascinating and delightful (in equal measure) on any other day.  But we just wanted more castles!  How our hearts soared when we saw the following castle, on a little island in the river.  The two small bits (apparently that's what they are actually called) sticking out near the top of the wall are for people to do their business from (euphemism for taking a crap).  This kept the smell away from the immediate vicinity of the castle.  It would seem that word of flushing toilets and sewerage systems had yet to reach this part of the world when the castle was built.
An absolute corker of a castle - apart from the toilet arrangements
Then we saw another castle.
Very nice - but there is a nagging thought that this is just another Rhine castle
In case you're getting the idea that all we were doing was looking at castles, I offer the following photographs.  In the first one Maggie needed a seat.  In the old days (before Facebook) a bystander (let's suppose it was me - just as an intellectual exercise) would have rushed to help.  Now that same bystander (I'm not admitting outright that it was me) just reaches for the reasonably clever phone and documents the struggle.
Maggie either: a. selfishly looking after her own seating arrangements, or b. struggling to get herself a seat while a crowd of bystanders look on
Finally, a gentleman stepped in to give a hand to our damsel in distress.  We were, after all, among castles, so a little chivalry was not uncalled for.
The gallant Peter steps in
Her chair properly assembled, Maggie was free to gather her ladies in waiting.
Girls just want to have fun
Robin, meanwhile, was concentrating on capturing as many images of castles as humanly, or digitally possible.
Robin photographing me photographing Robin photographing me photographing Robin, etc. etc.
Enough of that!  Back to castles.  The castle below, almost completely surrounded by campers, was quite impressively large - making it a big, slightly boring castle.
Campers laying siege to another castle - even I'm starting to get a little bored looking at castles
Then, almost too quickly for the human eye to follow, we moved on to another sodding castle.
Not sure how many more castles I can take
"Hooray!"  I thought.  Something more interesting than an endless stream of castles.  We don't value wind farms enough in my opinion.  Sadly, however, our view of the technologically marvellous wind farm was spoiled by an almost completely gratuitous castle.
Magnificent wind farm, nestling peacefully on the ridge line behind the village - try to ignore the castle on the hill
Thankfully we were almost past the Rhine Gorge and its endless castles, preparing to dock in the lovely town of Rudesheim for an afternoon walk and cultural visit.  At this point I must include a photograph sent to me by one of our travelling fellowship - Peter Moorhouse.  It is a lovely photograph of a river scene.  Beautifully composed and with almost perfect exposure - except for that damned castle!
Beautiful photograph of a peaceful river scene, unfortunately spoiled by yet another castle
We soon docked in Rudesheim and walked down the gangway (which some group members insist in calling a gang plank) to await the train we were told would take us to the town.
Waiting where we were told to wait for the train - slightly puzzled by the absence of train tracks
All was revealed.
Our train
Our first stop in town was at Siegfried's Mechanical Music Kabinett - a museum of mechanical music machines.
The outside of Siegfried's Mechanical Music Kabinett museum
I'm going to digress for a moment to explain something about how similar a lot of German is to English.  You might have noted that 'kabinett', the German word is very similar to 'cabinet', the English word.  The German word 'music' is even more similar to the English word 'music'.  But, you have to be careful.  I saw a sign which read: Feuerwehrzufahrt.
See, there really was a sign
Although this looks like it should mean: 'Fire where you fart' it actually means (according to the free translator app on my phone): Fire Brigade Access.  So, the lesson here is: don't get cocky when reading signs written in German.
Back to the museum.  The next photograph is of one of the mechanical music cabinets from the museum.
A member of our tour group cranking the handle on this music machine
Here's another one.
A very impressive 'orchestral' machine, combining impressive volume with dubious taste in music - looks like the floor must have been sloping
All too soon my time experiencing the music machines was over - I walked out after about 10 minutes.  No judgement on the quality of the museum, it just wasn't to my musical taste.  People who stuck with it said that the whole experience was actually very enjoyable - but so was the ice cream I had after cutting out early.
Our tour group met up back at the museum before setting out for our last stop.  Either Rhonda couldn't resist the romantic allure of the roses, or my lips were a little dry and, needing to get some lip balm, I discovered that Rhonda had just used the last of it on herself.  You decide.
Me getting some second-hand lip balm from Rhonda, under the roses
The last stop for us was at the Rudesheimer Schloss for a famous Rudesheimer Coffee.  Can you imagine how disappointed I was when someone told me that 'Schloss' was German for 'castle'. Another castle was the last thing I needed after our morning in the Rhine Gorge.  Thankfully it was more of a restaurant, and the Rudesheimer Coffees were very similar to Irish Coffee - with brandy instead of whiskey - which is to say delicious (or, in German, 'kostliche' [with an umlaut over the 'o']).
Part of our group enjoying a Rudesheimer Coffee - actually we had one each, and the whole group enjoyed the coffees
Here's a close-up of one of the coffees.
Lecker (German for 'yummy')
We finally got back to the ship in time for concert from a String Trio playing classical music before dinner. Very civilised.
Enjoying a short concert by La Strada, a String Trio - they weren't made of string in case your were wondering
Then it was another five-course meal before heading up to the upper deck to watch the sunset.
Lea enjoying dinner - I swear that I'm not staging this, Lea is actually eating every time I get my camera out during a meal
Just enough time before the sunset for a gratuitous selfie.
Selfie with Peter and Lea
Then it was the sunset.
Sublime sunset
After that it was time for bed.  I'll be back in a couple of days with the next instalment.

2 comments:

  1. Looks like loads of fun being had by all.
    I don't think I have seen a castle all month!
    Every one here is well and happy.
    Big family lunch with Judy and Pauline and Lyndal and Stuart and the kids. Very happy day.
    Blessings to you all. Percita

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  2. Love your blog Richard! You are putting up a very brave front dealing with all those old buildings!

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